Plateauing, working too much and staying psyched

This is my end of November training update. I was busy writing my finger training series, that’s why there wasn’t much news on my actual training. November was kinda hard. While I saw some initial progress in early November, I couldn’t carry the momentum throughout the month. Climbing outside was nice but I didn’t get much done and I’m still very far from my 7a Siurana goal. My tweaky shoulder got better now, so that’s a good thing. Otherwise, I had to work for university a lot and I wasn’t as fresh for training as I’d liked to be. A rough sleeping schedule and long days spent at the library prevented me from training as hard as I wanted to. Then my parents visited and I got sick. Couldn’t climb for a week and suffered from weird wrist pain. With all this piling up it was pretty hard to keep up motivation. I think it’s in periods like this, that you have to keep training no matter what. This is where training plans usually fail. When everything becomes too much, when training gets interrupted by external events and then you slouch a bit. You miss a session or two, because you don’t feel like it, something gets in the way for a few other sessions and before you know it you give up on your training plan and never go back to complete it.

At least this is what happened to me before. I was exactly at that point during the last weeks. At the point of silently giving up. This time however, I had a strong motivator that kept me going. Our trip to Siurana in February and the 7a bet. So I didn’t give up when things felt tweaky and I didn’t get derailed by the week of sickness. I got healthy instead, took care of the pains and niggles and kept training. I also stumbled upon this piece by badass ice climber Will Gadd, which was a pleasure to read and hugely motivational.

So much for the inner workings of my minds,  but there’s also my November goals I have to talk about. This is what I wrote a month ago:

Concerning my goals for November, I only have one priority: My goal is not to fuck up my shoulder! I’ll be in power phase in December and the only way I’ll be able to do some serious campus training is if my shoulders are in a healthy state. Again, I’ll do roped climbing once a week and bouldering 2 or 3 times. I want to complete my boulder pyramid, so I’ll need to send two 6B’s and five 6A+’s.

The number one priority has been achieved. My shoulder hasn’t felt so good in months and I saw real progress sticking with my rehab exercises and introducing a few new exercises. I did usually train 4 times a week and one of those sessions was usually roped climbing (except for the week where I was sick), so check! I also had a really good session at the wall the week after I was sick and I ticked two 6B’s and a 6A+, I did another 6A+ the day after, so this puts my bouldering pyramid at:

6C: 1

6B+: 2

6B: 4

6A+: 8

This is actually a perfect pyramid, although the 6C and the two 6B+’s were rather soft. In December I want to do four 6B’s, two 6B+’s and one 6C. I’ll also do campus boarding in December, I want to complete 6 sessions on the campus board. Let’s see where power phase gets me!




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